I think we knew in our first ten minutes that we were going to like it here. Whereas Sandakan and Kota Kinabalu lacked character the state capital of Sarawak has it in abundance.

Our hostel is perfectly located, slap bang on the riverside right opposite the iconic State Assembly Building. As we face that, to the left is the Darul Hana bridge snaking its way across the river.

Domed Mosques catch your eye as the sun glints on their roofs, the off-white and green Indian Mosque on stilts over the river and a pink and gold one just a short distance behind that.

Kuching actually translates as ‘cat city’ and they have no intention of you forgetting it! Although the city isn’t overrun with them, there are plenty around.

Many of the roundabouts are adorned with statues of them, souvenir shops have them, in both ceramic and wood. Kuching even has a museum dedicated to the feline creatures, something for a rainy day?

We are spoiled for food options here, many dishes have their own local twists and are unique to the city. A Sarawak Laksa, Kolo Mee and Pop rice have already been demolished and received a resounding thumbs up.

Sarawak Laksa (top left), Kolo Mee (top right) and Pop rice with runny fried egg (bottom)

India Street and food markets there provide further options that are tempting.

Each night at 8:30 and again at 9:30pm (and a third on Friday and Saturday), there is a musical illuminated fountain show. We had read mixed reviews about it but we have been genuinely impressed. The usual water jets / lights choreographed to music but also short animated clips projected onto a fine mist.

Considering that they are a nightly occurrence they attract quite a crowd among the locals, probably testament that a walk along the river promenade is such a pleasant experience.

A river cruise is another great way to see the city from a different perspective, we did just that and timed it for the sunset. Great value too – for just 17 ringgits (just a little over £3), we had our own private trip. Not sure which way is upriver and which down, but we went both ways!

Sunday evening we were fortunate to witness a Temple ceremony, we’re not exactly sure what it was all about but it was both colourful and noisy. To the constant beat of drums different dragons come and did their thing, first outside the Temple before heading inside and then across the road to a straw (possibly) dragon and bowing to it.

With different versions of fire crackers, some in a box, others on strings hoisted up the flagpole we went home with our ears ringing!

On the other side of the river are all the local villages, kampungs as they call them. These all have jetties where little ferries criss-cross all day to Kuching itself. With time on our hands we visit Boyan kampung, which also gives us easy access to Fort Margherita, now used as an art gallery.

We wander around the gardens and take some photos of both the Fort and the surrounding kampung, some lovely wooden houses amid some more modern structures. Every other shop is selling either the days catch or the famous layer cake, that we are still yet to try!

Whilst our journey across was just the two of us we seem to have hit rush hour for the return journey, the little ferry was full to the brim!