Who doesn’t enjoy a ride in a Tuk-Tuk? The rush of air in your face, the feel of every bump, the sense of danger that enlivens your senses. For us they definitely bring a thrill that you just don’t get in other more traditional forms of transport. Over the years we have experienced them in many Asian countries, but although they all tend to call them the same (either Tuk-Tuk or auto rickshaw) there are slight variations as you cross the different borders. Many countries still have the original cycle rickshaws that ferry locals every day to and from the markets, whilst others are used almost solely for a unique tourist experience.

A little bit of history though to start with? Their origins go right back to 1931 and Japan. By the end of the 1930s sales had begun to slow so at that point, to promote sales they were exported to other parts of South East Asia. Ironically the Japanese government was possibly the first to abolish the three-wheeler license in Japan in 1965. It doesn’t seemed to have harmed the original manufacturer too much, Mazda continue to sell automobiles all around the world…

After the history lesson a little bit of trivia…. while India has the most tuk-tuks (1.6 million) in the world it is Sri Lanka that has the most per capita, its 1.2 million auto-rickshaws mean that there is one for every 18 people!

Just for fun we have broken down our experiences country by country, and by the end we will have come up with what is the clear winner in our eyes!

India

Many Indian cities still use the more traditional cycle rickshaws and even the hand pulled one can still be found. The motorised version though can be found almost everywhere, the advantages they have is that they can cover bigger distances than pedal power yet still negotiate cramped city streets that other motorised vehicles just can’t. Some states have launched initiatives of women friendly rickshaw service called the Pink Rickshaws, whilst they are banned completely from southern Mumbai. In a country that is rightly famous for all its colour Indian rickshaws are mainly green around the lower half with the upper part and roof yellow. the other most recognisable version is again half and half but black and yellow.

The cycle versions still exist in many parts of India, we once had some poor old guy pedal us home from the Golden Temple in Amritsar to our hotel on the outskirts of the city, at one point we even got out to push as he had to negotiate a flyover!

Varanasi is another fantastic city where cycle rickshaws remain a part of every day life. Truly a city where time stands still.

For many visitors to India their first experience is trying the more gentle, laid back state of Goa. Maybe because of its Portuguese heritage there is a different vibe here, definitely more ‘western’ and liberal than the rest of the country. They even go as far as having a slight variation to the usual Indian tuk-tuk…. they have only gone and added doors to the back seats where passengers sit – ruining the experience!

Whilst it might be reassuring and feel more secure it does take away a lot of the joy that we associate with the more ‘open plan’ design. One reason that has been suggested to us is that with alcohol being so freely (and cheaply) available it is for the protection of the occupants!

Nepal

Whilst auto rickshaws were a popular mode of transport in Nepal during the 1980s and 1990s the government banned them in the early 2000s. Even though the motorised version has had its day the cycle versions are prevalent throughout, often decorated with flower garlands. Before the ban the annual Rickshaw Run sometimes ended in the foothills of the Himalayas, the starting point? Goa, Cochin (Kerala), Pondicherry – we just hope they had plenty of cushions to soften the journey!

As well as having the most decorative cycle rickshaws we must give Nepal a special award for having the most chaotic electric cables and wires we have ever seen, they make India’s look positively organised!

Sri Lanka

As well as having the most per person they also have the most environmentally friendly ones. The import of the legendary two-stroke engines, that makes the ‘tuk-tuk’ noise by which they have become known by, have been banned since 2008. Most tuk-tuks in Sri Lanka are four-stroke and imported from India, Bajaj being the manufacturer – so whilst they look identical to the Indian model there are modifications under the bonnet. They also seem to have a wider range of colours to choose from! Newer versions are either locally manufactured gasoline powered or electric versions from China.

That’s me having a ‘go’ in the drivers seat!

While in India the fare is regulated by the government, (try to hold back the laughter), in Sri Lanka very few have meters and the fare is negotiated between the passenger and driver…. be sure to do that beforehand.

Thailand

It doesn’t come as a shock that Thailand has the most ‘bling’ to theirs. With plenty of shiny chrome, metallic paint colours all highly polished they offer a very open air experience compared to the more enclosed versions of the Indian sub-continent. The drivers in Bangkok are the only ones we have ever come across who can compete with the Goans for sky high prices when it comes to tourists!

The most common format has the same seat formation but they also have a second style called the songthaew, most commonly found in Chiang Mai. The seating arrangements on these is facing inwards rather than forwards like the driver and they often run multiple passengers on a particular route rather than being ‘hailed’ like a taxi.

Songthaew also refers to a converted truck (or large van) that runs longer distances ferrying passengers between towns like a bus service.

Cambodia

Our particular favourite of the Cambodian varieties is the individual chariot pulled by a motorbike – so very different from the others we have come across on our travels. These comfortably seat four westerners (we do tend to be of larger build in comparison to Asians) and who knows how many locals can fit in one!

Exploring the Angkor complexes is probably our travel highlight, and in your own carriage is the perfect way – cover from the blazing sun but completely open around to create your own fan system while travelling. Once you have been dropped off by your driver he then sets his hammock across it, corner to corner, so a very multi-functional means of transport.

If you visit Phnom Penh then a lot of their tuk-tuks are available on the Grab App (alternative ride apps are available). They have some swanky new ones and yet prices are amazingly cheap – your journey cost, drivers name and registration number is already known before you climb aboard. Phnom Penh also has cycle rickshaws still wandering around the grid designed streets, these tend to be used by the locals, often returning loaded with shopping from the markets or for the school run. Seating in these is low down at the front, the opposite way on to the Indian version where the passenger sits high up behind the ‘driver’.

Vietnam

Probably our favourite country in Asia, it really has the lot – vibrant cities, stunning scenery, UNESCO sites, sandy beaches… unfortunately though a drought on the tuk-tuk front. In Vietnam the scooter or motorbike is King, by all means you can order yourself a ‘Grab’ and be whisked across the city as a pillion passenger but if you’re not keen on that idea then it is a boring standard taxi.

The old pedal cycle rickshaws are very prevalent in the tourist hot-spots of Hoi An and Hanoi, it seems that if you visit either of these places on a cruise the rickshaw experience is one of their obligatory excursions. We have often wandered around all morning and only seen drivers sleeping in them, then suddenly the street is awash with them as one after another slowly pedal in convoy around the main attractions.

Morning sleep before the cruise ships arrive in Hoi An…. Ready, steady, pedal on the streets of Hanoi

And the winner is …..?

For us it has to be the motorbike pulled carriage of Cambodia. A combination of many things, it is so different from the rest, a lot more open air so better all round views than the other ‘auto’ versions. Rather than looking over your drivers shoulder and your knees being squashed it has far more room and comfort. Like most travel favourites though, (destination, restaurant, bar, hotel), maybe it is the context of where we were and the great memories of the amazing Angkor complex that we associate it with….