Okay, there were more than two we visited today but we feel that this pair deserve a mention, well worth a look if your time in Luang Prabang permits.
Wat That Luang was the cremation site for Laos royalty up until 1975. Built on a low hill in 1817, close to the banks of the Mekong. If you are imagining grandeur then sorry to disappoint, the scaffolding is up, the roof is missing as it is currently being restored. What made it mention worthy for us was the number of young monks wandering around the grounds, and particularly those who we watched gathering fruit from the trees.
We were wandering around the old stupa when three young monks arrive with bamboo poles and start prodding around in the heights of the tree. Closer inspection and ‘prodding’ does them an injustice, a notch had been cut into the end of the pole and they were using that with precision to rip the stalk of the fruit from the branch. By the sound they made when they hit the floor they carried some weight! We believe they were custard apples, the language barrier meant finding out any more was impossible.
Leaving down some overgrown steps we found ourselves in the abandoned Thad Luang Park. Highlighted on the map as an area of greenery it was a concrete jungle. A selection of fibreglass animals, what once might have been a haunted house and a dried up water feature have just been left to nature. The pathways are already overgrown, and a huge collection of Buddhas are lined up on a sandy patch, no longer required – we assume that they were part of the park and not the temple…
A long walk, albeit at a leisurely pace took us to the outskirts of the town and Wat Phra Phome Phao. We had seen it twice, once when arriving from the boat jetty and then again from the Northern Bus Terminal – anyone arriving via the airport will also be passing it by. Set up on a hill overlooking the city this five-storey temple is a delight.
A distinctive bell shaped stupa set upon an octagonal structure can be seen for miles around. It’s a new addition to the Luang Prabang skyline and has been funded by Laotians living abroad. Set in a small wooded area on a hill this red and gold temple is adorned with depictions of Buddhist tales and folklore, some graphic and violent, completely out of context of the peace loving religion that it is. We wander up the wooden stairs, and then up even more – at each change in height the temperature increases another notch.
The final stretch to the very top is via a small ladder which narrows further as it reaches the summit. The top room is tiny, no room to swing a cat, but still room for a handful more Buddha images and frescos.
It’s a beautiful temple in lovely grounds, but it is deserted – we had the whole place to ourselves for a good half hour before a small minibus group tour arrived. Maybe it is the extra effort (or expense) it takes to get there, after all Luang Prabang does leave you spoilt for choice even within the city confines.
If you are looking for a perfect sunset spot, accompanied by the sounds of monks chanting then head out to Wat Phabatthai (ok, that’s three I have mentioned now) . There is a terrace to the rear of the temple complete with seating on the banks of the Mekong. The evening we visited, us and another couple had the entire place to ourselves…
Oldest On the Bus 